Saturday, May 14, 2011

HELP! I’VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN’T GET UP


Take On Truffle Issue Thing (January 2010--5 Months to Go)
     After reading about black truffles in my Umbria book, remembering what Ferenc Mate and especially Peter Mayle have written (France, but they still grow in the same place--under ground by a dwarf/young oak trees), I really wanted to taste and smell this earthy delicacy.  I told Marianne that if I lived in Italy I would want to do the whole experience:  take the dog out to route and find them, watch the process of preparing and cooking them, and learning to do it for myself.  Of course, it goes without saying that I want to eat them too.  Hell, if Michael Tucker thinks they’re the next thing closest to heaven, they have got to be good, right?  Marianne just looked at me with a wrinkled nose and said, “Well you’re the only one that’s going to be eating them.  Why would anyone like a black mold?” 
     I just stopped mid sentence and vaguely nodded my head, knowing this dream was not going to come true—any time soon. 
     “What is the big deal with ‘treasuring’ a fungus?  If it were in our house, we’d put on breathing masks, hang plastic sheets, and pay an exorbitant amount to have it professionally removed as toxic waste.”
     Later on, silly as it seemed, I was just messing around on ‘You Tube’ and started to type in names of writers, Mayes, Mate, Dorn, etc. just to see what might be currently out there.  That’s the way I found an old interview that Mate did promoting his book, “A Vineyard In Tuscany” and few years back.   I found that Mayes is not on video, and Ferenc wasn’t talking about his latest book, yet.  To my surprise, I found a silly video that Phil and Nancy Doran did as a sales device for his book “Reluctant Tuscan.”  It was very home spun and quite humorous.  I felt I needed to send him a note about it.  He responded days later, as if he didn’t have much going on this cold winter in Italy:

Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed the video. I'm glad to hear you're planning 
to come to Tuscany. We're here now and it's cold! But it's still beautiful albeit in a 
different way than the summer. 
    If Nancy and I can help with any suggestions for your trip please let us know. 
Ciao for now' 
Phil
 
     I liked the way he volunteered his wife for the duties of tour guide.  Coincidentally, we did have some questions about a few travel plans, and sadly I feared, I would be emailing and bugging them.  I could just imagine Nancy getting an email from someone she does not know, asking about the idiosincercies of off-the-main-road travel in Tuscany.  When she discovers that it was her husband who gave me the green light to proceed, I am sure she will have a few “Boh!”s and a good tongue lashing about communicating with strangers (stranieri).
     I also re-contacted Fernando in Umbria and asked him about arrangements before and after our stay with them.  I also asked what he thought about  Cristina’s (Florence) request and if it was appropriate.  He responded:
Dear David and Marianne,
nice to hear from you!!
Sorry for delay, we are working for maintainances...
About your questions:
- Pick up = Rome at your hotel (Sileo) on Sunday June 13th around 09:30-10:00 am.
- Departure = Transfer to Florence on Saturday June 19th around 08:00 (Florence 
around 10:00) to the train station where you can store your luggage so long you need, 
then by taxi (ab10 euro) you can reach the Piazza Cimatori that is not allowed to the 
private cars.
- The low provide that passports have to be registered on arrival... I would not send 
copies...
The tour you have in mind on your own is very interesting so we are sure you will 
have a nice holiday in Italy.
Once you are here if you need to arrange something we will help you with pleasure.
Saluti, Fernando
     Fernando continued to impress me as one of those very intuitive, savvy and just plain smart men.  The kind of guy that never boasts about his knowledge, just shares it whenever asked.   I had never met the guy, but I could tell I liked him already.