Saturday, April 2, 2011

HELP! I’VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN’T GET UP


Our Tub Has a History
     In Roseburg there are about three places to get a hot tub and everything that goes with it—chemicals, mechanical, etc.  Some places are newer than others and may not always have the best interests of the ‘needy’ tub owner in mind when they set fees and price chemicals.  The place closest to us, about a mile away, has a great fancy show room with well stocked selves lining the space.  The tub displays are, let’s face it, incredible and very tempting.  These new set-ups are sleek and sexy, with multiple jets and functions as well as chromotheropy (wow colored lights, groovy).  They are all made for one purpose—to soak in or soak as much out of the consumers pocket as possible?
      Marianne had tried to get hold of anyone there that could help us fix the cracks in the shell of the tub.  It had taken about two weeks to actually talk to a real person, who wasn’t very hopeful he could fix the shell without extensive (and costly) renovation.  By accident I stopped into another outfit close to school that does both spas and stoves.  It didn’t sound like a good combination.  Usually selling tubs was an afterthought when stoves weren’t selling, but the place has been in business for at least 25 years.  It is a warehouse space, large and cold inside with nothing pretentious or fancy about it.  The only person there looked like a Roseburg local.  She gave me the name and number of the guy that they’ve used for years for installations and repairs.  A guy named Dennis, who I guessed was a really old guy with bleached hands from dealing with chlorine and chemicals all the time.
     As luck would have it I was off mid-week because of Veteran’s day.  I called the number and a personable guy answered.  He said he was right over the hill in Lookingglass (three miles) and, after installing a pump, could be at the house in a half and hour, since he would be passing by.  He showed up in a black, late eighties paneled van: a guy about 4 inches shorter than me and maybe in his late thirties.  We went out to the tub--me pardoning myself for my absolute ignorance with this kind of mechanicals, and he dismissing any guilt I had for taking a free tub.
    He had barely started looking at the thing and suddenly it was evident he knew his job well.  He looked at the innards, gave a chuckle and a peasant smile.  Oh Lord, I thought, he sees that it’s a pile of crap and that I got taken ‘big time’. 
     “I know this tub,” he said.  “Where did you get it?” 
     “From someone I know over in Hucrest,” I admitted.   “She didn’t want it, but couldn’t get rid of it.  The friend that talked me into this knew a crane operator, etc…”  I briefly gave him our history of the thing.
     “Yes.  I remember,   I live just over the hill from her.  She called up about wanting to get rid of it.  All I had to do was just walk over the hill; she lives right on the other side.  In fact, I probably helped put it in about twenty years ago.  I know these tubs well.  I use to work in their factory in the Portland area.”
     I could not believe it.  He and this tub had a history.  Small world isn’t it?  Dennis went on to tell me how he had come to Roseburg when he was a teenager, went from job to job, and eventually ended up with the spa place over on Garden Valley Boulevard.    The ‘coincidences’ kept piling up.  He was actually pretty amazed we got the tub out and he said it seemed to be fine.  He explained how the mechanical system worked and instantly had it up and running.  He went through everything with me.   All I had to do was give it a couple of days to see if things worked.  He gave me his card and told me to call and tell him how things were working.  We talked about chemicals, the pros and cons of each system--bromine, chlorine, and saline and how old and basic our ‘new’ tub was. 
     I bought him back through the house and had he relate the whole story of his ‘involvement’ with our tub.  Of course, Marianne chimed ‘kismet!’ when he finished.  Dennis and I shook hands and told each other that I was great to have met.  He didn’t charge for the first visit, but said he would be calling on him ‘a lot’.  It’s an old, free tub—with a history.

The First Soak
     That Thursday night after school, I came home and cranked up the heat on the tub.  I had my singing group, The Vintage Singers, until 7:30 so I thought that would be enough time to raise the temperature from an encouraging 70o to something more appropriate for a first time soak on a 40o night.  All during the rehearsal, through the Handel runs and the high F’s, I kept anticipating the first time in our own tub.  When I got home, the rubber ducky, the thermometer that came with the tub, read 90o.  That was good enough for me.  I located my swim suit, my flip flops, and a big towel.  I headed out to the tub, without Marianne, because of her cold that we shared. 
     There still weren’t any steps so I had to hoist myself up onto the edge and swing my feet around.  I bravely put my feet into the hot water and as I lowered them deeper into the tub I thought it seemed warmer than 90o; maybe it was more like 100o.  That did not detour me.  In I went up to my shoulders, wincing at the water that nipped at my cold fresh.  Yes it was hotter, but I was in my hot tub, damn it.  The ancient jets worked fine and the blue light under the water gave a get ambiance to the whole experience.  There is something so real and revitalizing about boiling in water on a cold night.  I didn’t last more than ten minutes, but it was great. 
     I love how you aren’t even cold when you get out.  Your body is steaming, but the air you breathe in is crisp.  Once I got in the house and into the shower, I didn’t have any chemicals in the tub and who knows what had been in the pump all this time, did I realize how red my skin was.  I was a little concerned that I may have scalded myself, but I didn’t care, I had a working hot tub—that was practically free!

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

HELP! I’VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN’T GET UP

 Poggio Etrusco
     By accident I came across Poggio Etruscan run by Pamela Sheldon Johns while I was searching a hotel, B & B, Agriturismo, or anything that we could stay in for 2 or 3 nights after we were through in Firenze.  I know.  It was just a dream and not at all connected with reality.  I thought that if we had the extra money, we could hold up somewhere cheap and either take a bus or a train there, or if things really worked out—a car.  It could workout great.  Stay somewhere with a pool and a frattoria near by and I could spend the day sketching and painting and Marianne could have reposo any time she wanted.  It would have to be either near Firenze or near a train station.
     First, I looked in the Vagliagli area in Chianti, because, of course, Dario Castagno wrote about it so wonderfully in his “A Day in Tuscany” and also his first book, “Too Much Tuscan Sun”.  You can’t find cheap, close, and short term in Chianti—it doesn’t seem to exist.  I did find Amina, an Agriturismo, but the reviews from previous guests made it very questionable.  Also, the bus really didn’t stop close—a car was needed.  I found the search site Verene, and Italian company that lists all sorts of stays.  I found a handful, but wasn’t really impressed with the cheap ones.  I mean, come on, these extra days could be inexpensive, couldn’t they?
      By some quirk of fate, I found a little ‘Agri’ outside of Montepulciano—the first place Franc Mate and his wife Candace lived (“The Hills of Tuscany”).  Actually, that Montepulciano address was a come-on of sorts, the ‘Agri’ is east of the village of Sant Albino.  The quirky website caught my eye.  The owners, Pamela Sheldon Johns (writer of cookbooks and her artist husband, Johnny—were Americani!  It had a pool, 4 apartments and a Bed & Breakfast “matrimonial” room, the Margherita, rented by the day—two days minimum.  The Poggio Etrusco is a 15 acre organic farm where guests are encouraged to pick the seasonal fruit.  It is accessible from Chiusi, a major train station, and there’s a Hertz rental-a –car there as well.  I checked the Google map to see if the roads would be navigable for a ‘newbie’ Italian driver.  They could be driven—15 miles, not too many corners, two main roads, and two towns.  I could do that.  Hell, even Marianne could do that. 
     Two very desirable things Poggio Etrusco had going for it was how close it was to other places that I would love to explore, and Pamela, a cook, gives classes.  I could go for walks, do my artist thing and Marianne could take a cooking class.  What could be more perfect?  Oh did I mention the room cost € 85?  That’s $127.50 a night—by far better than the other places that were over €100 a night.  If I wanted to take the car to Montepulciano, La Foce, the Mate winery south of Montalcino, or even visit Julian at his art conclave east of Chiusi, it would be an hour’s drive or less.  I could take my sketchpad, or paints, and stop anytime I got the urge.  Three days in the bucolic bliss of the Italian countryside and I would be able to go back to Oregon a happy (rich in spirit and soul only) man.  If Marianne learned some authentic Tuscan recipes--all the better!
     The possibilities were just getting better and better.  I found reviews by former guests and they are raved about the place.  One couple had been there twice.  I checked the location several times on Google Earth and finally located Poggio Etrusco.  There it was, in the country, and I could actually walk farm lanes and explore, and maybe even see a deserted ‘podere’.  Isn’t the resolution on Google’s satellite maps an amazing thing? 
     Of course, an abandoned farmhouse can only mean one thing, a project—a fixer-upper.  I stopped and held myself back.  “Damn Francis Mayes, Franc Mate, Phil Doran and those others who have already ‘suckered’ us ‘dreamers’ into thinking if they did it, why can’t I?”  I quickly sent an email to the John’s, hoping they would have the Margherita room available that Saturday, Sunday and Monday. 
Hello:
Found Poggio Etrusco through web searching; it looks beautiful.  I was
pleased to read that there is a car rental in Chiusi (and train station).My wife and I are in Umbria/Tuscany for two weeks in June of 2010.  We have accommodations for the first two weeks but may want to rent a car and say two or three nights more (so I can sketch and paint).It looks like the Margherita (A matrimonial room for bed & breakfast stays. Private bathroom and private entrance, Euro 85/night) might work
for us.  Please let us know if the room is available June 26, 27, & 28.
Thank you so much for your help.
    Realistically, I didn’t think there was a chance on God’s green earth we could get it.  Still, if we had the money, it was worth a shot.  I looked on it as my ‘secret fantasy’:  Walking a dirt road, the din of cicadas, a variety of Tuscan birds singing, sun on my face, distant views of Lago Trasimeno, and avoiding snakes.  It would be private dream.  I probably couldn’t tell Marianne.  It would just be something to get me through the long fall days, while school, church, and the ‘hot tub’ saga worn on. 
     No sooner than I had gotten home from work and I had an answer:

Sounds like you are planning a great trip, and I am glad you have found us! I do have Margherita available. If you would like to reserve, please send a deposit of 50%, a check for $190 payable to ITALIAN FOOD ARTISANS (Euro 127.50 converts to $190), and mail it to 27 W Anapamu St #427, Santa Barbara, CA 93101. The balance of Euro 127.50 will be due on arrival and payable in euros (cash preferred) or with Visa or MasterCard.
Regarding the rental car, I suggest you check rates at Auto Europe. They will beat other rental companies' price and use the vendors at Chiusi.
Pamela included her website:
      www.FoodArtisans.com
      Pamela's cookbooks and workshops in Italy
      US office (805) 963-7289
Their business address:
       www.Poggio-Etrusco.com
       Organic extra-virgin olive oil
       Agriturismo  (Bed & Breakfast) in Tuscany
       Tel/Fax (39) 0578 798 370
And, of course, Johnny’s website:
       www.JohnnyJohns.com
       Johnny's Tuscan-inspired artwork
     Gulp!  The ‘what if’ happened and I didn’t think it would.  How was I going to talk Marianne into this?  There was that moment of ‘I’ve been caught in the cookie jar’ kind of realization.  She could go ‘ballistic’ if I just sprung it on her.  Would we be able to swing this, too?  I was afraid to even think about it. We would really have to hop a train in Firenze and rent a car in Chiusi and drive to Poggio Etrusco.  Could we even?  How do I get into these predicaments, I’ll never know.