Saturday, April 2, 2011

HELP! I’VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN’T GET UP


Our Tub Has a History
     In Roseburg there are about three places to get a hot tub and everything that goes with it—chemicals, mechanical, etc.  Some places are newer than others and may not always have the best interests of the ‘needy’ tub owner in mind when they set fees and price chemicals.  The place closest to us, about a mile away, has a great fancy show room with well stocked selves lining the space.  The tub displays are, let’s face it, incredible and very tempting.  These new set-ups are sleek and sexy, with multiple jets and functions as well as chromotheropy (wow colored lights, groovy).  They are all made for one purpose—to soak in or soak as much out of the consumers pocket as possible?
      Marianne had tried to get hold of anyone there that could help us fix the cracks in the shell of the tub.  It had taken about two weeks to actually talk to a real person, who wasn’t very hopeful he could fix the shell without extensive (and costly) renovation.  By accident I stopped into another outfit close to school that does both spas and stoves.  It didn’t sound like a good combination.  Usually selling tubs was an afterthought when stoves weren’t selling, but the place has been in business for at least 25 years.  It is a warehouse space, large and cold inside with nothing pretentious or fancy about it.  The only person there looked like a Roseburg local.  She gave me the name and number of the guy that they’ve used for years for installations and repairs.  A guy named Dennis, who I guessed was a really old guy with bleached hands from dealing with chlorine and chemicals all the time.
     As luck would have it I was off mid-week because of Veteran’s day.  I called the number and a personable guy answered.  He said he was right over the hill in Lookingglass (three miles) and, after installing a pump, could be at the house in a half and hour, since he would be passing by.  He showed up in a black, late eighties paneled van: a guy about 4 inches shorter than me and maybe in his late thirties.  We went out to the tub--me pardoning myself for my absolute ignorance with this kind of mechanicals, and he dismissing any guilt I had for taking a free tub.
    He had barely started looking at the thing and suddenly it was evident he knew his job well.  He looked at the innards, gave a chuckle and a peasant smile.  Oh Lord, I thought, he sees that it’s a pile of crap and that I got taken ‘big time’. 
     “I know this tub,” he said.  “Where did you get it?” 
     “From someone I know over in Hucrest,” I admitted.   “She didn’t want it, but couldn’t get rid of it.  The friend that talked me into this knew a crane operator, etc…”  I briefly gave him our history of the thing.
     “Yes.  I remember,   I live just over the hill from her.  She called up about wanting to get rid of it.  All I had to do was just walk over the hill; she lives right on the other side.  In fact, I probably helped put it in about twenty years ago.  I know these tubs well.  I use to work in their factory in the Portland area.”
     I could not believe it.  He and this tub had a history.  Small world isn’t it?  Dennis went on to tell me how he had come to Roseburg when he was a teenager, went from job to job, and eventually ended up with the spa place over on Garden Valley Boulevard.    The ‘coincidences’ kept piling up.  He was actually pretty amazed we got the tub out and he said it seemed to be fine.  He explained how the mechanical system worked and instantly had it up and running.  He went through everything with me.   All I had to do was give it a couple of days to see if things worked.  He gave me his card and told me to call and tell him how things were working.  We talked about chemicals, the pros and cons of each system--bromine, chlorine, and saline and how old and basic our ‘new’ tub was. 
     I bought him back through the house and had he relate the whole story of his ‘involvement’ with our tub.  Of course, Marianne chimed ‘kismet!’ when he finished.  Dennis and I shook hands and told each other that I was great to have met.  He didn’t charge for the first visit, but said he would be calling on him ‘a lot’.  It’s an old, free tub—with a history.

The First Soak
     That Thursday night after school, I came home and cranked up the heat on the tub.  I had my singing group, The Vintage Singers, until 7:30 so I thought that would be enough time to raise the temperature from an encouraging 70o to something more appropriate for a first time soak on a 40o night.  All during the rehearsal, through the Handel runs and the high F’s, I kept anticipating the first time in our own tub.  When I got home, the rubber ducky, the thermometer that came with the tub, read 90o.  That was good enough for me.  I located my swim suit, my flip flops, and a big towel.  I headed out to the tub, without Marianne, because of her cold that we shared. 
     There still weren’t any steps so I had to hoist myself up onto the edge and swing my feet around.  I bravely put my feet into the hot water and as I lowered them deeper into the tub I thought it seemed warmer than 90o; maybe it was more like 100o.  That did not detour me.  In I went up to my shoulders, wincing at the water that nipped at my cold fresh.  Yes it was hotter, but I was in my hot tub, damn it.  The ancient jets worked fine and the blue light under the water gave a get ambiance to the whole experience.  There is something so real and revitalizing about boiling in water on a cold night.  I didn’t last more than ten minutes, but it was great. 
     I love how you aren’t even cold when you get out.  Your body is steaming, but the air you breathe in is crisp.  Once I got in the house and into the shower, I didn’t have any chemicals in the tub and who knows what had been in the pump all this time, did I realize how red my skin was.  I was a little concerned that I may have scalded myself, but I didn’t care, I had a working hot tub—that was practically free!

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

HELP! I’VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN’T GET UP

 Poggio Etrusco
     By accident I came across Poggio Etruscan run by Pamela Sheldon Johns while I was searching a hotel, B & B, Agriturismo, or anything that we could stay in for 2 or 3 nights after we were through in Firenze.  I know.  It was just a dream and not at all connected with reality.  I thought that if we had the extra money, we could hold up somewhere cheap and either take a bus or a train there, or if things really worked out—a car.  It could workout great.  Stay somewhere with a pool and a frattoria near by and I could spend the day sketching and painting and Marianne could have reposo any time she wanted.  It would have to be either near Firenze or near a train station.
     First, I looked in the Vagliagli area in Chianti, because, of course, Dario Castagno wrote about it so wonderfully in his “A Day in Tuscany” and also his first book, “Too Much Tuscan Sun”.  You can’t find cheap, close, and short term in Chianti—it doesn’t seem to exist.  I did find Amina, an Agriturismo, but the reviews from previous guests made it very questionable.  Also, the bus really didn’t stop close—a car was needed.  I found the search site Verene, and Italian company that lists all sorts of stays.  I found a handful, but wasn’t really impressed with the cheap ones.  I mean, come on, these extra days could be inexpensive, couldn’t they?
      By some quirk of fate, I found a little ‘Agri’ outside of Montepulciano—the first place Franc Mate and his wife Candace lived (“The Hills of Tuscany”).  Actually, that Montepulciano address was a come-on of sorts, the ‘Agri’ is east of the village of Sant Albino.  The quirky website caught my eye.  The owners, Pamela Sheldon Johns (writer of cookbooks and her artist husband, Johnny—were Americani!  It had a pool, 4 apartments and a Bed & Breakfast “matrimonial” room, the Margherita, rented by the day—two days minimum.  The Poggio Etrusco is a 15 acre organic farm where guests are encouraged to pick the seasonal fruit.  It is accessible from Chiusi, a major train station, and there’s a Hertz rental-a –car there as well.  I checked the Google map to see if the roads would be navigable for a ‘newbie’ Italian driver.  They could be driven—15 miles, not too many corners, two main roads, and two towns.  I could do that.  Hell, even Marianne could do that. 
     Two very desirable things Poggio Etrusco had going for it was how close it was to other places that I would love to explore, and Pamela, a cook, gives classes.  I could go for walks, do my artist thing and Marianne could take a cooking class.  What could be more perfect?  Oh did I mention the room cost € 85?  That’s $127.50 a night—by far better than the other places that were over €100 a night.  If I wanted to take the car to Montepulciano, La Foce, the Mate winery south of Montalcino, or even visit Julian at his art conclave east of Chiusi, it would be an hour’s drive or less.  I could take my sketchpad, or paints, and stop anytime I got the urge.  Three days in the bucolic bliss of the Italian countryside and I would be able to go back to Oregon a happy (rich in spirit and soul only) man.  If Marianne learned some authentic Tuscan recipes--all the better!
     The possibilities were just getting better and better.  I found reviews by former guests and they are raved about the place.  One couple had been there twice.  I checked the location several times on Google Earth and finally located Poggio Etrusco.  There it was, in the country, and I could actually walk farm lanes and explore, and maybe even see a deserted ‘podere’.  Isn’t the resolution on Google’s satellite maps an amazing thing? 
     Of course, an abandoned farmhouse can only mean one thing, a project—a fixer-upper.  I stopped and held myself back.  “Damn Francis Mayes, Franc Mate, Phil Doran and those others who have already ‘suckered’ us ‘dreamers’ into thinking if they did it, why can’t I?”  I quickly sent an email to the John’s, hoping they would have the Margherita room available that Saturday, Sunday and Monday. 
Hello:
Found Poggio Etrusco through web searching; it looks beautiful.  I was
pleased to read that there is a car rental in Chiusi (and train station).My wife and I are in Umbria/Tuscany for two weeks in June of 2010.  We have accommodations for the first two weeks but may want to rent a car and say two or three nights more (so I can sketch and paint).It looks like the Margherita (A matrimonial room for bed & breakfast stays. Private bathroom and private entrance, Euro 85/night) might work
for us.  Please let us know if the room is available June 26, 27, & 28.
Thank you so much for your help.
    Realistically, I didn’t think there was a chance on God’s green earth we could get it.  Still, if we had the money, it was worth a shot.  I looked on it as my ‘secret fantasy’:  Walking a dirt road, the din of cicadas, a variety of Tuscan birds singing, sun on my face, distant views of Lago Trasimeno, and avoiding snakes.  It would be private dream.  I probably couldn’t tell Marianne.  It would just be something to get me through the long fall days, while school, church, and the ‘hot tub’ saga worn on. 
     No sooner than I had gotten home from work and I had an answer:

Sounds like you are planning a great trip, and I am glad you have found us! I do have Margherita available. If you would like to reserve, please send a deposit of 50%, a check for $190 payable to ITALIAN FOOD ARTISANS (Euro 127.50 converts to $190), and mail it to 27 W Anapamu St #427, Santa Barbara, CA 93101. The balance of Euro 127.50 will be due on arrival and payable in euros (cash preferred) or with Visa or MasterCard.
Regarding the rental car, I suggest you check rates at Auto Europe. They will beat other rental companies' price and use the vendors at Chiusi.
Pamela included her website:
      www.FoodArtisans.com
      Pamela's cookbooks and workshops in Italy
      US office (805) 963-7289
Their business address:
       www.Poggio-Etrusco.com
       Organic extra-virgin olive oil
       Agriturismo  (Bed & Breakfast) in Tuscany
       Tel/Fax (39) 0578 798 370
And, of course, Johnny’s website:
       www.JohnnyJohns.com
       Johnny's Tuscan-inspired artwork
     Gulp!  The ‘what if’ happened and I didn’t think it would.  How was I going to talk Marianne into this?  There was that moment of ‘I’ve been caught in the cookie jar’ kind of realization.  She could go ‘ballistic’ if I just sprung it on her.  Would we be able to swing this, too?  I was afraid to even think about it. We would really have to hop a train in Firenze and rent a car in Chiusi and drive to Poggio Etrusco.  Could we even?  How do I get into these predicaments, I’ll never know.

Friday, March 25, 2011

HELP I'VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN'T GET UP

Moving the Tub—Electric Too
     Actually getting the tub onto the concrete pad was the easiest part of the whole job.  I called six guys on the first Wednesday morning in November, before it had to get it in place because the ‘monsoons’ would start in earnest the next day (that’s what the weather guy said) and the electrician was showing up on Friday at 8 AM.  The moving brigade got there at 6:15 PM, in the dark because of the end daylight savings time, and we moved the hot tub into place, measuring to try and center in on the pad and over the pipe for the wiring.  By the dim glow of the 60 watt florescent porch light, and one flash light, it took five minutes, tops.  I even got them to put the cheap Big Lots (Big Lots of Crap) canopy in place over the tub so it wouldn’t be too wet when the guy started working on the wiring, in two days.  No one tripped in the dark and I didn’t hurt any other part of my body.  The best thing that happened was friends from church and the theater came together to accomplish what I certainly could not.  The worst things that happened were I was late for choir rehearsal and mud from seven assorted shoes and boots got tracked through the house.  Small price to pay, I’d say.
     The electricians came by on that Friday and in short order, installed the necessary components and the tub was ready to go.  Well, almost.  I still had to fill it.  Since the back facet was leaking, so much more generously then when it was ‘repaired’ by the plumber two summers ago, I stuck the hose into the tub and closed the dismal looking lid.  After one day, there seemed to be enough water outside the tub on the concrete slab to tell me we had a leakage issue.  However, on further inspection of the mechanics of the system, I found an outflow or drainage value that was open, and there was a cap that could be screwed on the end of the plastic pipe. 
     The next day there was water in the tub and not much, you have to remember “it rains” (piove— a new Italian word) in Oregon most of the fall and winter), so I was half way convinced the cracks in the plastic shell of the tub were merely cosmetic.  The pump and mechanics, however, did not work.  I tried with my limited skills to press buttons, turn knobs, and slide levers, but nothing would work.  Yup, this is why it was free.
   By November, Marianne had established a ritual for our Monday night Italian classes.  We would do a quick study at home, grab all our books and materials, pile into the car, then stop and have dinner at a Chinese place on the way.  We would converse in Italian, using an English-Italian dictionary, and go over lessons while eating Mar Far and Fried Rice—special #1.  As it turned out, the waitress that always waited on us was the mother of a former student.  Zi Ru, a Chinese National, who was about the best student I ever had.  She was amazing. 
     Zi Ru came to school, not speaking any English.  She was bright and quick, and she had a real heart and aptitude for music.  It was wonderful to watch her grow into a musician that devoured anything I gave her.  She picked up the recorder and played it better than anyone in her class.  After her fourth grade year, she spoke fine English and was both respectful and polite.  Everyone liked her and she fit in well--just a really neat kid.  Her mom gave us up dates ever time we came into the restaurant.  Marianne thinks she’ll be a doctor.  A musical doctor is what I hope.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

HELP! I’VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN’T GET UP

Conversing In Italian, “Ciao, Bella Gina”
     Marianne and I did something quite uncommon for us—we signed up of a night class:  Beginning Italian.  It was uncommon because we are usually either doing theatre at night or singing or directing choir for me.  It has been taught for years at UCC (Umpqua Community College) our local JC by Jean Melo. 
     Now, Jean Melo and I go back a long ways.  She was my teaching partner at Winchester Elementary School in Roseburg, Oregon in the 1990’s.  I had her kids in school when they first settled here from a cross-country move from Connecticut.  Jean is a force of nature, an incredibly versatile pianist, outstanding musician (including accordion), and speaks Italian like she was born there.  She has also been very persuasive. Extremely so.  She was after me for years to take her beginners class.  In late September we succumbed to her constant invitations and signed up for the class.
    Jean and Wes, her husband lived near Pisa while he did his service.  “Close” to the Field of Miracles really turned out to be four miles, or so, but since I live in Oregon, USA; I thought four was close and convenient.  She relished her time in Tuscany, and made many friends.  Many she goes back to see every year.  The couple they usually end up staying with live on Elba—Napoleon’s exile isle.  “Sort of looks like a sardine, doesn’t it?”  She quibbled as we started to look at the map of Italia.  She is thorough.  Not only were we getting Italian to use, but we were getting a geography lesson, culture lesson, and history thrown it for good measure.   I relished it.
     Gina loves to give her insights into the Italian culture and La bella figura.  I hang on her every word.  I fall off the cliff when she “rapid-fires” Italian questions and answers like notes from a Mozart opera overture—too many!?!  One night in class she started talking about driving in Italy and how vastly different it is to drive with Italians since the carbonating have begin to ‘crack-down’ on native-born drivers—levying heavy traffic fines on them for driving infractions. 
     “Before,” she said, “You took your life in your hands, and certainly got out of their way if you ever saw one coming.  They were terrible.”
     “Like, yellow means go faster, and red just a suggestion?” offered Marianne.
      “Si!  Now, they are courteous and almost respectful because they understand the ‘consequences’ better.”
     Later that evening at home I asked Marianne if Jean’s comments encouraged her at all about trying to drive in Tuscany.  She took the crossword she was working on and raised it up over her face so I could not see a reaction.  Well I guess a got my answer on that topic.  I would try to keep building my case later.

Those Happy Feudal Days
    Gina was running through words and phrases in class and came across la conto, the bill. 
     “First,” she says, “you must always ask for the bill at a ristorante.  They will never bring it to you.  Never.  You have to ask for it.”
     “Or mime writing on the palm of your hand,” added Marianne. 
     “Did you know that the ‘Count’ comes from conto, to count, keep track of.  In the feudal times the Count was charged by the Duke to go out and count all the peasants things.  The grain sacks, livestock, wine barrels, everything, and then the Duke would get 95% of it all.  That’s why the rich were very rich and the poor, well, the poor got babies.  Even today, the aristocracy won huge amounts of land.  The nobles always got the best jobs, all that sort of thing.  Although it’s not so bad, my husband, Wes, got to go on a hunt with a rich count-type and ended up shooting a wild boar (cinghale).  He even got knighted, a cross of boars’ blood on the forehead.  But that’s another story…”

Thanksgiving, Italian-Style
    “Felice Ringraziegiorno!” One week before Thanksgiving, Gina related her experience with having some loving Italian ‘la nonna’ make Thanksgiving dinner for them. 
     “She wanted to do it so badly.  She was ‘molto dolce’.  First, for the turkey--it was stuffed with a basic hamburger--meatloaf mixture.  She refused to us a bread stuffing; it was revolting to her Italian senses.  Weird, yes, but it was so tasty, “coma gustoso”.” 
     Gina shows the hand ‘language’ that goes with it—a pointer finger (thumb out fingers curled over) against the cheek.  It looked just like our “I’m so cute and adorable” sign. 
     “The hamburger ‘infused’ into the poultry and made it so moist and flavorful.  Mmmm, delizioso!  The pumpkin pie, however, was a totally foreign idea.  Mamma sliced up the pumpkin, laid the pieces into a pie shell, and the result was, non delizioso.  No, no, no.  It was pretty much a disaster.”

Hot Tub Up-Date 
     The gravel came in two loads, and even though my left knee complained about it, I hauled it all to the back yard and tamped it down.   Over the next week I got the form in place and waited for the ‘flying hot tub”.  I had to tear out the free-stand trellises and rip the healthy vines (wisteria and clematis) off of them in order for the tub to get to the patio.  After two or three mis-starts, on a sunny Thursday in mid-October, Leonard got the hot tub into the back yard.  Marianne was at home and said she was too afraid to go out and look at the process.  If I had been off work that day, I would have loved to watch the whole production.  She said she saw a shadow cross the skylight on the south side of the house, and did see the tub gracefully descend and land on the small patio on back.  Wonderful!  So we now had a 7’ x 7’ tub on a 9’x 9’ patio.  We could almost get out the back door and get around it.  Fine.  Now all that was left was getting the 10” by 10” slab poured.
   The following week, I had a non-contract Friday (the first of four furlough days and the beginning of the decrease in my 23-year salary), so I was bound and determined to get the whole thing done, poured, etc. and the weather looked like it was going to cooperate.  I called a few young, strong guys, because I knew I couldn’t really do the physical labor.  Curiously, I woke that Friday morning, after a four week aggravation of gout (yes gout!) in my left big toe, with a ‘discomfort’ in my right heel.  It hoped it had been bed sheets too tightly tucked into the mattress. No such luck.  By the afternoon, I knew I had a ‘re-visitation’ of an old Achilles tendon/bone spurs on my heel problem.  I struggled through two visits to that hell-(p)-ful place, Lowes, to get things for the concrete form and the tub, and then had to return them because I ‘blithely’ believed what the clerk had told me, when it wasn’t what I needed.  Ahh, box-stores—don’t get me started. 
     Saturday, I had to go to “Wally-World” for more things, and had to walk the half mile to the front of the store to get a cart.  Then, because they ‘improved’ the store since I was there last, I had to walk around the whole mile and a half to find the few things I needed.  By then I couldn’t believe the pain my heel was in.  I was so out of it as I passed through the food section; I grabbed a bag of toll house cookie dough, something I never do, thinking ‘I have to get a treat for this torture’.  Needless to say, after cleaning the tub, and digging out the gravel to support the concrete form, I canceled the work party and opened a bottle of Gabbiano Classico and had my own party.
    I couldn’t believe the pain I had Sunday morning, having to go to church, direct choir and sing.  I had to use a cane and stand on the ball of my right foot.  God got my through that one.  It went home and actually rested.  Unfortunately, I knew that night I could not teach the next day, so I had to drive across town at 6 A.M. to school to call for a sub and make lesson plans.  Luckily, Cain, the Site Operator was there and had the gate to campus already open.  I still had to get out of the car, open it and drive around to the music room.  I never realized how big my small music room was until I had to hobble around it to get things ready.  I got the business done and out of the room before the other teachers started to show up and 7:30. 
     I went home and crashed for an hour.  With Marianne’s help, I then I spend the next four and a half hours (that is not an exaggeration) getting into to see a doctor at the ‘Urgent-Care’ center, because my doctor was—out of town, again.  I found out I have probably broken my heel (as well as the bone spurs) and was referred to a Podiatrist.  The P.A. prescribed prednisone and walking-cast bootie. 
     When you get one of these things, at first, you can’t walk in it.  Later when you get the ’rhythm’ of the thing going it does a curious thing.  It either blows-out your knee or hip because of the contorted, unnatural way it makes you walk.  It chose my right hip.  There was absolutely no position, standing, sitting, or reclining that offered pain relief.  So, one week to the day after I woke up with a heel problem I now had a hip problem--an excruciatingly painful hip problem that kept me from sleeping for at least five nights.  Ain’t modern medicine a miracle?  Needless to say, it put the concrete project back two weeks, and the electric was now backed up into November.

Sunday, March 13, 2011


And While We’re There… (September/October 2009)
     By September, things were totally ‘on course’ for Italy and the only things we had yet to decide on were what tours to take while in Florence, and what airlines and flight number we would have.  Little things like getting train tickets to Florence or to the airport, finding places to stay when we got to Rome and to Florence didn’t seem like a problem anymore since we had Fernando and the Calzaiuoli apartment.  Heck, I thought, let’s ‘go for broke’ and try a third week, rent a car and stay in a little agriturismo somewhere in Tuscany so I could paint. 
     After reading the press advances on Michael Tucker’s new book, “Family Meals”, I felt bold enough to write him again and tell him we we’re going to be in the neighbor, figuratively, the following June.  To my surprise, he responded in only days this time.

     Hi David and Marianne,
     Actually, one of the themes of the new book is our attempt to give Jill's mom a good last chapter without sacrificing our lives in the process.  Not always easy but I think we show it can be done.  
     Have fun at Lake Trasimeno.  Stay in touch.
     Mike

     The theme of giving your parents a ‘good last chapter’ has rung so true with me and Marianne.  We have lost all our parents.  Both our dads passed in 2001.  My dad, CR, had a long bout with cancer.  My brothers and I took turns caring for him, although it took me a day to get there.  He never made it to 9-11.  Marianne’s father, John, did; it was his birthday.  He was so angry that “they did that” on his birthday, I think it lead to his death.  Her father lived with us for five years.  In his nineties, John required a lot of care, and eventually had to be moved into an assisted living facility.  He fell out of bed one day, breaking his pelvis, and never recovered.  We came and saw him in the hospital when he died.  He looked so surprised, eyes wide in wonder at what would happen next.  In 2007, my mother was dropped while assistants were getting her into bed at her care facility.  The fall shattered her right femur and sent blood clots through her body.  She died three days later.
     I could tell that Michael Tucker was dealing with the same life issues we were, but I don’t think that he knew what he was actually saying when he wrote ‘stay in touch’.  Me?  The OCD guy?  I didn’t think that was going to be appropriate for me to keep sending him emails and updates.  Marianne cautioned me to keep it ‘low-key’ and “don’t scare the guy”.  I dropped the idea of responding to his email and thought I might send him another after I read his book.  Good plan.
     Through what I consider a ‘fluke’, I got a copy of Tucker’s newest book, “Family Meals” from Amazon in mid-October, even though its release date was set for November.  I devoured the book in four days.  When you are sitting around waiting for your next pain med’s, you have some extra reading time.  I had another bout with my Achilles tendon and was put in a walking boot, which in-turn irritated and inflamed the bursa around my right hip.  I literally couldn’t sleep for a week.
     The book was great.  I started out hoping that there would be just a whole lot about Umbria, but it took on this totally different direction.  He got into the ‘nitty-gritty’ of what all of us ‘baby-boomers’ have been dreading:  the aging and, inevitable, death of our parents.  He tied it in with theatre, which is always a ‘draw’ for me and Marianne.  Marianne found it to be a bit ego-centered on Tucker’s part.  She said, “It seemed to all about him, how it affected him, and not the family and Jill’s mother.”
    Of course, I had to let him know, via email, Sunday afternoon, what I thought: 
Mr. Tucker, Mr. Tucker:
Thank you. "Family Meals" is a feast. Sharing ones personal life can be tough, but you handle it with such wisdom, passion, and wit. It is your best book yet. Your writing has reached another level. I got the book Wed. and finished it on Saturday -- a record for me. I must admit that all I wanted was more tastes and smells of Italy, but you gave us real life. Grazie.
Although both our parents are passed, I relate completely with your family dealings with Jill's mother, Lora. We love her very much, by the way (watch out for the left hook!). Ending your book with waiting in the wings to go on stage resonates deeply in both our lives, even though we are amateur theatre, we still know "where you both are". We have been involved with several productions of Gurney's "Love Letters" and it is in our hearts. What I got from the book was the change in your family dynamic. In “Living in a Foreign Language” you were a couple with cameo appearances by you kids.  Now you are now a ‘nuclear’ family.  So Italian.
David and Marianne Jones

His response followed the next morning.

Dear David and Marianne,
Thank you so much.  You are my first review!  I'm so pleased with your response to the book - you made our morning.
Mike

Prego.

Saturday, March 12, 2011

HELP! I’VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN’T GET UP

Keeping In Contact with the Writers
    Throughout the course of 2007 and 2008, I had been, madly buying books on Italy, Tuscany specifically, and devouring them at a frightening pace.  I had already bought all of Frances Mayes’ books, including her picture/recipe books “At Home in Tuscany” and “Bringing Tuscany Home”.   I found Dario Castagno’s first books, “Too Much Tuscan Sun”, “Too Much Tuscan Wine”, and “A Day in Tuscany”; Beppe Severgnini’s “La Bella Figura”; both of Ferenc Mate’s “The Hills of Tuscany”, and “A Vineyard in Tuscany”; Phil Doran’s very funny “The Reluctant Tuscan”; and Michael Tucker’s “Living In A Foreign Language”.   The combination of author’s had a massive impact on me. 
     I believe in letting folks know when they do a good job and I liked their work.  So, I started emailing the authors.  First was Ferenc Mate:
 
Re: Compliments On "A Vineyard In Tuscany" & "The Hills of Tuscany" 
Mr. Mate: 
I have now read both of your Tuscany books and I want you to know how much my 
wife and I have enjoyed them.  Thank you for sharing your life, your family, and 
passions with us.  Visiting Italy has always been high on my list of things to 
do when I retire, but, for now, reading your words will have to be enough. 
I hope that I might have the honor of visiting your winery, if open to the public, if we 
ever make it to Tuscany. 
Thank you, 
David Jones 
 
To my surprise he responded:
 
Dear Mr. Jones, 
Many thanks for your generous comments, it's always rewarding to hear that 
someone has been moved enough to write a note. 
Yes we are near La Villa, and do stop by to taste some wine when you're in 
Tuscany. 
 Best regards, 
 Ferenc Mate 

Next, I tried Phil Doran.  He wrote back, too:
Dear David,
    Thanks so much for your kind note, I can't tell you how much it means to hear you like my book. All the events in the book are true, although I did compress the time-line and consolidate some of the characters to make the story more manageable.
    The film rights to the book have been optioned by John Travolta and his wife Kelly Preston who would play us in the movie. We were having discussions when they suffered the loss of their son so there hasn't been any further movement while they grieve.
    Nancy has gotten away from sculpting to pursue an art form that's physically less demanding and if you go to her website you can see the portraits she's been painting. 
     Once again David, thanks for taking the time to write, and I hope you get to Italy soon and perhaps you can visit, see Nancy's studio, and the two of you can discuss painting. 
         Ciao for now,
        Phil Doran

Wow.  These guys sound like real people.  I was inspired and wrote Dario Castagno.  He wrote back:
 
Ciao David 
                Thanks for your note. Fortunately due to very strict laws the 
Tuscan countryside is still unspoilt and as it has always been. Also we have a 
very low density of population so "our" Tuscany is still as we authors describe 
it. The Tuscan craze has seemed to have dimmered and because of the crises fewer 
tourists flock here. 
The podere Ferrale is on the border between the boroughs of Castellina and 
Radda, the place is quite beautiful ( I slept there in 1979 when it belonged to 
a schoolmate of mine) The etruscan tombs I mention in my book are very close and 
following our studies we believe that Ferrale was the original acropolis meaning 
2500 years ago (!) 
My second book A day in Tuscany is available in the US bookshops while 
Too Much Tuscan Wine (by far my least worst book!) at the moment is only 
available through my site.  If you decide to order it please inform me whom I should 
sign them too ( in both cases I send them direct from home) and I shall also send you 
a DVD I shot based on my second book I hope that Too Much Tuscan Wine gets 
published (I'm seeking for a new US publisher) and in that case I shall return to the 
US and Portland where I have a big following! 
Ciao 
Dario 
 
This was great.  He was a real person, even though he was trying to make a living, too.  In late July I sent him a follow up.  He wasn’t as cheerful this time:
 
Re: Tuscan Tours,etc. 
Ciao...the Palio was won by Tartuca...I will not be attending the event in 
MA...just my oil will. 
Alma Domus is well located...I think though that the snag is they have curfew 
I recomend the Comapagnia dei vinattieri, enoteca i terzi, Guido, Nello uoi really
 MUST rent a car or even a scooter (thought of that?) public transportation will 
take you to the towns but you will miss so much of the beauties of Tuscany. 
I never got hold of a publisher and am currently seeking for a job; I might be 
working as a waiter nest season  
Ciao 
Dario
 
     It sounded like the depression/recession had hit as hard in Italy as it had in Oregon.  I shot back a response and told him not to wait tables, I had done it in my twenties before teaching and I still have nightmares about it.     
     Now Michael Tucker has made a comfortable living being an actor, and was doing fine with his two books; he even bought a house in Umbria just writing about his eating habits.  I love to eat too and long for a cuisine that only uses fresh ingredients and a long heritage of incredible food.  Compared to Tucker, I am a ‘neophyte’ when it comes to cuisine and wine, but why, I’ve been eating (well) practically my whole life and drinking for a part of my adult life as well!  Why couldn’t I become an expert?
     I found the ‘Tucker-berry’s (Jill Eikenberry and Michael Tucker) website on line in February of 2008 and decided to let Mister Tucker know how much his book enticed me.  The email was a short, maybe four paragraphs, email that let him know how much we both liked his book, and that I too had the dream, not the reality, to go to Italy. 
     He actually wrote back, a month or so later thanking me for the compliments and said we should just go for it!  Go to Italy.  Well, that’s fine for him to say, he has more money than I’ll ever have.  I kept re-reading his book and wondering why Marianne and I couldn’t have an Italian experience.  I really think that between Ferenc, Phil, and Michael, (okay, and Mayes) the ‘seed’ of ‘travel Italia’ had been planted so firmly into my psyche that poor Marianne wouldn’t even have a chance of saying ‘no’ or ‘dis-swaying’ me when the un ‘bridled monster’ broke out into the open in early June.  “Feed me!  I must go to Tuscany!”

Thursday, March 10, 2011

HELP! I’VE FALLEN IN (love with) TUSCANY AND I CAN’T GET UP

Donatella, Andiamo Mamma!  (Fall 2009)

     Bigfork that year was the first time I had ever taken the laptop on vacation with us.  Sometimes it is a welcome companion, other times it is not.  Since the weather the second week of August in Montana was unseasonably wet, the internet as a great alternative to watching cable television—mostly summer reruns.
     It amazes me the amount of responses you get when you type in the words “Chianti Wine Tours”.  There’s a ‘bajillion’.  I could have gone through them one by one and spent all three nights looking for the perfect one, but when I saw “from Siena” and “Fonterultoli”  I clicked on it immediately.  This is when I ‘met’ Donatella—thirty-something wife and mother and a licensed tour guide who lives in Siena.  Her company is Wine Tours in Tuscany.
     Now I am a sucker for a pretty face and tons of pictures with really happy tourists drinking wine.  I fell more in love with each new link I clicked.   Donatella looked personable, knowledgeable, and fun-loving.  She was ready to make all my Chianti dreams come true.  And I fell for it hook, line, and sinker.  After reading everything twice, I decided to fill out her contact form and send it immediately.  She actually didn’t take long to respond:
 
Informativa Privacy (ex D.lgs 196/03) 
Le informazioni contenute nel presente documento e relativi allegati possono 
essere riservate e sono destinate esclusivamente alla persona o alla società 
indicata come destinatario. La diffusione e la distribuzione del presente documento 
a soggetti da quelli diversi indicati, od in generale qualsivoglia utilizzo illecito dei 
dati ivi contenuti, è proibita sia ai sensi dell'art.616 del Codice Penale che 
dal D.Lgs 196/03 in materia di protezione dei dati personali (Privacy). Se avete 
ricevuto per errore questo documento siete pregati di distruggerlo e di 
comunicarcelo prontamente tramite e-mail o fax. 
 
My Italian didn’t even come close to translating her response, if it was 
her and not a computer-generated one.  After we returned from Montana, 
we did get a response from Donatella in English:
 
Dear David, dear Marianne, 
thank you for you kind e-mail and for contacting me. 
I confirm my availability for the week June 20th to 26th, 2010. I send you what I 
have planned for your wonderful days in Tuscany. 
The tour is all inclusive, all tastings and lunch. Let me know if that suits you ok. 
You'll receive 5% discount if you'll book 2 or more. Please feel free asking me 
any questions or if you would like to receive another program. 
All my best, 
Donatella 
 
Ciao Donatella: 
We received your e-mail yesterday morning and were so happy to read about 
the two excursions.  Incredible! They are wonderful, and doing both of them would 
be like a dream come true.  Would one of the stops in Chianti be Fonterutoli?  I 
noticed on your web site a picture captioned "Fonterutoli" (the winery I would 
most like to visit next to anything in Montalcino--which we have plans to see) 
and my heart jumped for joy.  "Andiamo, mamma!" We also saw the cooking 
classes and cried, "Bella!" However, Marianne and I are mere mortals and our
 means are even more so. I am so afraid to disappoint you, but we don't think 
we can afford both trips.  We might be able to do a modified version of the 
San Gimignano--Volterra excursion.  I am truly sorry.  We are so impressed 
with your web site, your expertise, and even your family. I do not want to cause 
any hard feelings, Donatella. Honestly, we wouldn't dream of taking you away 
from a profitable tour, during peek tourist season, to drive to Firenze and take 
two middle-aged Americans around on a reduced-rate excursion. Please, let 
us know what you would like to do. We respect whatever you have to say.  
 Thank you for your time and information.  I hope your summer is still going strong. 
Molto grazie, David and Marianne Jones 
 
Dear friends, 
I really want that your dreams will become truth!!! 
Your words about my family, my programs and also about 
my website have really touched me. Thank you. Now...., if you'll book the 2 tours 
( exactly how I have presented to you and also included Fonterutoli winery!!!) I 
make for you my best price in € 660,00 total. I'll appreciate if the payment it 
will be by cash. You are so nice that I wish to meet you. 
Take care, 
Donatella 
 
Ciao Donatella: 
 I apologize for not being prompter about responding. 
Thank you for you great offer.  We love the two tours. I want to say 'yes' to your 
kind offer, and we also really do want to meet you, but I am just so concerned 
about 
the money (and I hate being like this).   I have friends who say "it's only money," 
and they are right, but these two weeks in Tuscany-Umbria are like 4 months of 
income for me. We don't want to leave you hanging, and we do want to be 
responsible and realistic.   When do you need a firm commitment from us?    
Molto grazie, 
David and Marianne Jones 
 
Dear Marianne, dear David, 
I really feel you like good friends so that I want to do my best to satisfy you. 
If for you is ok, I'll contact you at the end of September. 
 What I offer you it will be a great unforgettable experience spend in one of 
the most beautiful area in the world but I understand the money problem is not 
a small one. 
 For the moment enjoy these last summer days. 
 My best, 
Donatella 
     
     We put the wine tour plans on hold for a while, knowing that 
these Tuscans can play hardball when it comes to charging for tours.  
 Meanwhile, I kept looking for tours and places to stay for our third 
week in Tuscany.  One Sunday Marianne found an ad in the Sunday 
magazine that comes in the local paper—You Enchanted Italy.  I 
found the sight and explored it thoroughly.   Brent Cook runs an 
operation that can do anything for the traveler.  I was still looking 
for the perfect tour to San Gimignano or Volterra and had done a 
lot of research.  After I emailed and explained our ‘semi-plans’ he 
wrote back:
 
       Brent Crook:
Hi David and Marianne,
 Thanks for contacting me at Your Enchanted Italy.  WOW, you've already
done a lot of work on your trip, good job!  I should mention that I don't handle
airline tickets –
but highly recommend this travel agency in Seattle: http://www.elizabethholmes.com/   
tell them I sent you - they're great!
 Regarding the rest of your trip - I can gladly act as a consultant for all of your other
needs - villa, apartments, tours, etc.  My consulting fee is $100 but I'll also make
contacts for you etc.  Montestigliano normally rents for a week during high season
but she would do 5 day rentals in high season-  probably nothing shorter than that
but I have other options we can consider for a shorter stay.  Glad to help out - let
me know if that's okay,
Ciao,
Brent
Brent Crook
www.yourenchanteditaly.com

     Enchantingly enough his prices were more outlandish than Donatella’s.   
I never wrote back after that first contact.  I did contact Donatella later 
on and tried to keep the connection going.  It did feel that maybe we 
may not be the cliental that she was really after.  I was hoping for a 
plan B if she was just a sweet talker waiting to dump me for the next 
Joe to come along with deeper pockets.  Even though my pockets 
were about as shallow as they get.